appliquebasics

Basic Steps to appliquéing faeb's designs.

Why this Lesson?

I get lots of mail from people wanting to know the correct way to sew an applique design. I realized many are not enjoying this lovely technique because they have tried it in the past and were disappointed in their attempts. This is a shame because it is a wonderful way to created striking designs that resemble those our grandmothers did by hand and we are constantly trying to achieve with our new machines. Appliqués are great for larger designs because they do not have the curly stiffness that an embroidery design sometimes has. There is not as much need for heavy stabilizers making them softer and more appropriate to use on some projects. The simplicity of applique design gives them a charm of their own. I find them more challenging to digitize than the embroidery designs and not all designs can be digitized to sew as appliqués.

This first photo is of my monitor's screen with my rose design showing. This is a very simple design with only 5 frames.

The first frame is the APPLIQUE MATERIAL. This is sewn for only one reason and that is to mark the position that the fabrics will be sewn. In my latest designs I have begun to digitize this so that all of the applique parts will be marked in this, the first, frame. This eliminates extra frames and saves time.

I sew this frame with the first color given which for this rose is red. If this color is very dark and some of the threads you will be using for the satin stitches are very light then you might need to make it a lighter color so it will not show through... not likely but may.

`In this photo I have ran the first frame but not yet clipped my jump threads. Be sure to clip them after each frame has been sewn.`
	For this nest frame which is the APPLIQUE POSITION frame I need to place my red fabric over the places where it is to go. I have to look at my sketch of the rose to determine just where as the other fabrics positions are sewn also. I will need two pieces of fabric.... one for the rose and one for the bud. The needle is above the bud so this tells me the machine will sew that one first. If you have prepared your fabric with the starch there will be no need of anything to hold these in position except your fingers held lightly on them. I will hold mine real lightly while the machine sews the fabric down.
For this nest frame which is the APPLIQUE POSITION frame I need to place my red fabric over the places where it is to go. I have to look at my sketch of the rose to determine just where as the other fabrics positions are sewn also. I will need two pieces of fabric, one for the rose and one for the bud. The needle is above the bud so this tells me the machine will sew that one first. If you have prepared your fabric with the starch there will be no need of anything to hold these in position except your fingers held lightly on them. I will hold mine real lightly while the machine sews the fabric down.
	`This next frame will be the applique frame. It is the satin stitches that will hold the applique fabrics in place.`
`This frame is sewn just as we did the other frame. It will have some details embroidered with it. Sometimes there will be more color and extra embroidery added. Your screen like the photo at the top will show these to you. Wasn't that easy?`
	`To see how I finished my roses, check out my project pages and the prairie point edge lesson. You can find this rose in my Assorted 1 collection.` `If you have enjoyed this applique lesson why not tell me? This will keep me motivated to add more to my site. Even better... order some of my designs. ;-) Without the support of my online friends I will have to find something else to do.`

Hints for better results.
I do not recommend the use of the 'Set To Back' function to make changes in appliquéd designs. This can cause a slight shifting of the 4 frames thus causing the stitches to not catch the fabric properly. If this is attempted.... be sure to save the results as a new file. This will protect your original files. And do not think something is wrong with the files, as they have been tested many times and proven to be good. Always test yours if you have made changes in the original files. It is best to not attempt to make changes in applique designs.

Many of my designs can be sewn without the applique fabric, creating a different look. This is elegant sewn in metallic thread for evening wear or all white for the white work our grandmothers loved. Sewn in colors they look very much like antique embroidery. Only the last frame needs to be sewn for this. Again test the design you want to use first to be sure it can be used for this type work.

For appliqués always run a test using the same fabrics you plan to use for the project if in doubt. Check that the applique fabric is not to loosely woven since this can cause it to pull loose. My fabric of choice for most projects is an all cotton, quilting type fabric. I buy 1/4 yards pieces of colors I like when I find them. Take them home, wash them by hand in hot water.. Check for color fastness. Rinse well and when dry, iron them with a heavy duty spray starch until they rattle. Roll them in little rolls and store according to color in the plastic see-thru boxes. In time your collection will grow and you will have a great assortment for any design you wish to do. I have also hand dyed muslin with the professional dyes like the quilters use to dye their fabrics. Preparing your fabric like this, you will not need any adhesive and pinning will not be necessary. Starching these fabrics will aid in keeping the edges from fraying and make the trimming much easier. If using a thinner fabric.... back it with a light weight woven type iron on interfacing then test by putting a piece in hot water and allow to dry to see if it wrinkles from shrinkage. The interfacing fabric can cause shrinkage..

My designs were created to use with the 40 wt. rayon or polyester threads. Choose a color to match/contrast with the applique fabric and sew the applique frames with same color as the satin stitches with this thread. For metallic or other fancy types threads use a bobbin thread or rayon that matches to sew the applique material and the applique position frames .... changing to the fancy thread on the last satin stitch applique row.

I buy my little scissors for trimming appliqués at a New Home dealer. They have small curve blades and red plastic handles. Sells for about five dollars a pair. They are the best I have found for this job. Do not use them for any other cutting (especially your nails). I purchased one of the suction type hooks and keep mine hanging on my machine. ;-) Get in the habit of always returning them to this hook and you will not lose time searching for them. You can see this in some of my photos.

Many projects would benefit from a spraying of Scotch guard to protect them. Do not spray any that will be next to the skin. I hope these instructions will encourage you to try my designs. There are free sample designs on the sample pages for you to try appliqués. I just know you will find appliqués are a great way to go. Happy appliquéing!