totebag

With Barbara's permission I have placed these instructions here for everyone to enjoy. Many thanks to Barbara for sharing her beautiful tote bag and instructions with us.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR TOTE BAG

By Barbara Hoffman

I’ve had several requests for pattern information for the embroidered tote bags I make. I have two types currently on display on the Internet. The apple appliqué bag seen on this page and the Sunbonnets bag can be seen at Betty Cauthen’s site on the page of her Monthly Sunbonnets collection.

I did not buy a pattern for the bags, but instead developed my own pattern based on what I like. The measurements listed in the directions below can be changed as desired, but those below will create a bag that is 19” wide, 14” high, and 4” deep.

For a larger view click HERE

Supplies Needed ¾ yd. of sturdy fabric, such as denim, duck cloth, canvas, or twill 1 yd. of coordinating cotton for lining and pocket Fabric to be embroidered (I used pre-quilted muslin for the Sunbonnets, and ticking for the appliquéd apples)
Cotton scraps in various colors (if appliquéing) Scraps of fusible interfacing
6” strip of Velcro
Thread and stabilizer
Note: I wash all my fabric prior to embroidering and sewing so that the bag will be washable.

Directions Embroider…. my favorite part! I like to embroider three 4” designs onto 9” squares. When the embroidery is complete, press from the backside, and cut into 6” squares, being sure to center the embroidery. Piece the embroidered squares. Cut 2 strips of the connecting fabric, 2” wide X 20” long. Cut another strip 2” wide and 24” long. (For the apple bag, I used the same red print as in the appliqué. For the Sunbonnet bag, I used strips of denim.) Cut the 24” strip into four 6” lengths. Determine the placement you want for the designs, and then join the embroidered squares to the 6” strips. (Note: I sew ½” seams. I prefer them to ¼” seams.) Look at the picture of the apple bag below. You will see that there is a strip between each square, and one on each end. Press the seams away from the embroidered squares.
Embellish the piecing (optional). I like to use a decorative stitch to embellish the piecing. Along the 6” strips I’ve stitched a blanket stitch by machine. Complete assembly of embroidered section. On the 20” strips, press under ½” on one long side. Attach the strips to the top and bottom of the pieced section (in ½” seams), and press the seams away from the embroidered squares. You have now finished the focal point of the bag!
Cut out the pieces for your bag: From the sturdy fabric (I use denim almost exclusively) cut two rectangles 20” wide and 17” long. For the straps, cut 2 strips 3” wide and 27” long.

From the lining fabric, cut two rectangles 20” wide and 17” long. Cut pocket piece 9” wide and 14” long. From the fusible interfacing (I prefer heavy weight), cut three strips 1” wide and 10” long. Sewing the bag. Attach the embroidered piece to one section of the heavy fabric. Place the center (not the top or the bottom) of the embroidered piece 9½” down from the top of the rectangle. Your embroidered piece should be the same width as the rectangle… in this case, 20”. I find it extremely helpful to spray the back of the embroidered section with spray adhesive. Carefully align your embroidery on the front piece of the bag. Pin the embroidered section in place, and stitch along the long pressed outer edges. If you’ve used embellishing stitches for the piecing of the squares, you can use them for this portion as well. I like to stitch additional rows where the long strips join the embroidered squares. Make the inner pocket.
Fold in half, right sides together, so that the 9” edges are together at the end. Stitch together with ½” seam, leaving an opening on one side for turning. Trim corners, turn, and press. Edge-stitch the long seam, and stitch again ¼” from edge stitching. Center the pocket to one lining section 5” from the top of the rectangle, with the edge-stitched side towards the top. Before stitching the pocket to lining piece, fuse the interfacing strips to the back of the lining, centering strips along placement lines of the pocket. This helps to keep the pocket from tearing away from the lining.
Assemble the bag pieces:
1. Sew bottom edge of bag pieces (right sides together) in ½” seam; press open. Repeat for lining pieces.
2. Sew sides of bag (right sides together) in seam; press open. Repeat for lining pieces.

3. This is the tricky part. Cut a 2” square out of each side at the bottom of the bag where the side and bottom seams meet. Repeat for the lining pieces. Look at the drawing below for clarification.

4. Right sides together, bring together the cut edges at the bottom of the bag, aligning seams in the center. Stitch together with a ½” seam. I stitch twice since this seam will take a lot of stress. This seam creates the depth to the bag; without it, the bag would be flat.

5. Press the two strap pieces in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Now press ½” along each edge, so that the raw edge is halfway between the outer pressed edge and the pressed center. Then press the two edges together, so that you now have a strap 1” wide. Edge-stitch along both edges of both straps.

6. Pin one strap to the front of the bag (right sides together); another strap is pinned to the back. The raw edges of the straps are placed even with the raw edges of the bag, 6” from each side seam. (Your strap should be making a “U” from the top of the bag.) Baste the straps to the bag pieces ½” and 1½“ from the raw edge.

7. Once the bag and the lining have been assembled, press under 1½“ along the top of the bag, and 1¾” along the top of the lining. Place the lining inside the bag, wrong sides together, with the lining about 1/8” below the edge of the bag; pin in place. From the inside, stitch close to the edge of the lining. Turn the bag over and from the right side; stitch again 1¼” from the edge of the bag.

8. Center the strip of Velcro between the straps and between the stitching lines, and stitch in place.
9. You’re done! You can now press the bag. I iron from the inside, and put a towel under the embroidered portions so that the stitching is not damaged. Note: Be careful you don’t touch the iron to the Velcro… it melts. (Ask me how I know!) For a finishing touch, spray the bag lightly with Scotch Guard. It will help to keep the bag cleaner longer.

Thank you for your interest!
Barbara Hoffman