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Since I first showed my mats on the net many have written asking me where could they get instructions for them. I have written these as a gift to everyone. These mats can be decorated in an unlimited number of ways and they 'wear like iron'. When it is just hubby and me at the kitchen table we just flip them over when we eat and that makes for less laundry.

The supplies

These are the products I used and found to work well for me. I give them no other endorsements.Sullivans Quilt Basting spray.
Heavy Duty spray starch. (this is not the sizing type but a starch.)
Quilter's rule (opt. it is nice for marking the quilting lines.)
Large rotary cutter (opt but great for trimming, not shown)
Mechanical pen with a narrow lead
Sewing machine,
Threads (to match all fabrics)
Paper to make the pattern. I use freezer paper for this or use one of the cheap plastic mats to trace around. ;-)

Note: Before we go any farther let me tell you why I want you to use lots of starch on all of your fabrics. Starch will make the fabric much easier to handle. Have you ever notice the manufactories use it a lot? Using starch makes your machine and needle slide over the fabric. Ever notice how nice your iron slides over the fabric after using starch? When the starch is washed out of the fabric your marks will go with it if you have marked it lightly. Starch will make the applique fabrics much easier to trim after applying the applique position stitches. There will be much less fraying if you have made the applique fabrics stiff with the starch.
Oh.. one more thing worth mentioning here... do get a telfon coated iron if you don't have one already. They make a world of difference.

For each mat you will need. (Note: there is no certain size to make your mat. Make them what ever size you need for your own table . This is the size that works well for me. I will trim it later) Make them a little larger as they shrink some with the quilting and laundry. If in doubt..wash and iron your fabrics before proceeding.
Backside (interlining) 1 piece cut 20 X 14 inches
Backside(lining) OPT. You can choose to put a linning on the back to dress it up there... but it is not necessary. Matching the bobbin thread on a busy print works well. After all who will turn them over and look when you have the table all set?
Topside 1 piece cut 19 X 14. Starch and iron these pieces until firm.
Batting
Cut two pieces 20 X 14 of Fairfields Cotton Classic quilt batting. (Do not attempt to use a dracon batt. Also the 100% cotton batts will shrink your mat so if you choose to use this type better make the mat larger) For a thicker/heavier mat you can use another layer of this batting. I have even placed a piece of an old towel or blanket between the batting when making pot holders
BindingCut some binding strips 2 1/2 inch wide and long enough to go around your mat plus 6 or more inches. (Note: if you are making oval or round mats you will need to cut these on the bias. Square or rectangle on the straight grain is fine. Fold these strips in half lengthwise and press.

Marking the quilting lines. With the large quilter's rule and mechanical pencil I began by folding the top fabric pieces in half both way and making a light crease, (another reason for the starch) Next began marking the lines from center outward both ways 1 3/4 inches apart. Do this very lightly. The stitches will cover most of these pencil lines and the rest will wash out if you have not marked them to heavy. The starch helps to remove the pencil marks.

Making the sandwich. Lay the back (or interlining) good side down on the table. Having the two pieces of batt together very lightly spray one side with the basting spray. Lay it on the back fabric glue side down smoothing it to get any lumps out. Next spray the other side of the batting and place the top fabric, right side up, on this taking care to smooth any wrinkles. Your sandwich is now complete and it is time to quilt it.

Quilting the mats.... You may/may not need the walking foot on your machine. You should make a small sandwich of the lining, top fabric with the 2 layers of batting between to test until you get the results you like. I use a fine thread and a little larger than average stitch length for mine. The embroidery bobbin thread works well on the bobbin. There are two many threads on the market for me to tell you what to use. Just experiment until it looks good to you. Another thing worth mentioning here.......... you can use some of your machine's pattern stitches too. One is the elastic stitch. The one on my old Bernina 930 is more rounded and
I like the looks of it much better and use it a lot. If you have developed the skills to do free-hand quilting this looks nice also. I love the look of stripple quilting and love to do it.

Photo two photo 3
In the photos above I have started quilting my mats. I began with the center mark and worked to my right then without turning the mat around I roll up the finished side and stitched the other side. When I had completed the shorter rows I turned my mat and, began stitching at the center working to the right. Then I stitched the lines to the left of the center line..(right photo) Do not trim the mat now as you may need that extra on the ends to aid in hooping.
We must now decide the shape of our mats. I like oval mats for my round kitchen table so mine will be oval but you can make yours any shape you like. Make a paper pattern of this shape and use it to mark the shape on the mat.
Choose your design (I hope you choose one of my applique designs.) Print it out on thin paper (I use the food wrap papers) to use as a placement guide. Pin it where your design should be then put the plastic template over it, aligning it up with the marking on the paper template and pin in position. (Full instructions for this step is in my hooping instructions. Put your hoop in position and hoop it all together. I did not need any stabilizers.

I am now all hooped and ready to apply my design. I will remove my plastic and paper templates and applique the designs I have chosen. I advice using a polyester embroidery thread and very good grade of fabric because these will go though many laundries. Since this is a lesson on making the plate mat and not on embroider/applique I will skip over that part.

After the design is in place it is time to trim the plate mat outer edges. We've already put the mark where we are to cut so that will be easy to trim now with the scissors.

Photo
photo 5 If you wish you can add a new piece of fabric for the back at this time. Just cut it the same as the mat and pin it to the back. You can quilt this back if you wish or decorate it and you will have reversible mats. Fold the binding strip as shown on the right and pin the strip all around the mat. (Remember my mat is oval so no corner to deal with. Maybe in another lesson I will explain how to do the binding on a square corner.) when you come back to the beginning tuck the end in this fold. Sew this strip to the mat using a 5/8 inch seam. The only thing left to do now is to turn the binding to the back side and whip it down by hand. A nice relaxing job to do when watching TV tonight.

I'm all done and here it is! The green/white checks matches the wall paper in my kitchen.
This little rooster is so cute. I think he knows it and that is why he is crowing.

I wonder what I should serve my next guest. Do you think maybe Kentucky Fried Chicken or scramble egg sandwiches. *grin*

The finished platemat

I know I am will get lots of mail about my little rooster and hen. I digitize them special for my kitchen because my theme is chickens. I have not added them to any collection. This little rooster took me about 50 hours to digitize and the hen was almost as much. I am very proud of them. They will never be for sale. Sometimes they are a special offer and gift to my customers.

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